We have been in Fulaga over a month - time has gone so fast!
Between hanging out with the Villagers and the Yachties and exploring this beautiful island, we have been having a wonderful time - even if the weather wasn't fully cooperating with us.
Our host family, Joe and Tara, have been very good to us and we have learned so much about village life. Plus, exchanging food, gifts, and lots of stories. We even went to church twice - yikes!
There have have lots of boats coming and going during our stay from 5 all of the way to 16 (and from an assortment of countries). We have chosen to spend most of our time at the SE anchorage next to the Sand Spit - love the water and the beaches, plus such a beautiful big bay. The village anchorage has most of the crowd and the Yachties have been very involved in daily village life. We have missed some of the fun and festivities at the village, but we are Ok with that.
When we want some village time, we take the dinghy over which is about a 20 minute ride, plus a 20 minute walk. High tide is good, low tide is more interesting - sometimes we have to pull the dinghy across the low sandy spots. Coming back is usually a wet ride right into the winds and wave - oh well. We dress accordingly!
At this time, our plans are to sail overnight to Koro Island where we will spend a couple of days moored off the Dere Bay Resort. Back to civilization and all the luxuries like a restaurant, bar, cellphone coverage and internet. Wild times ahead!
Then onto Savusavu where we start out get-of-the-country run. Hoping for good weather - as always.
And, yes, we have eaten and drank our way thru most of our provisions - our cupboards are almost bare. Must be time to go!
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Wednesday, July 15, 2015
Tuesday, July 14, 2015
Going Away Party!
Once we informed our hosts, Joe, Tara, Teddie, and Ma, that we were leaving Fulaga in a few days, we were immediately invited to their home for a Kava Party. Why not?
Plus, we wanted to say good-bye to all of the Villagers that we met during our stay - very sweet people.
So, we loaded up the dinghy with gifts, food, and Kava (of course) and headed to the village for the last time.
We delivered the Kava and they started pounding the roots into powder. It was quite a process and lots of muscle required.
While the prep work was happening, Teddy volunteered to take us to the caves above the village. It isn't far, but it is almost straight up the hill and very rugged. This is the site of the old village - you can still see some of the old foundations - the old Fijians were very tough.
It is a very protected spot, plus there is a great view of the coast line so they could watch boats approaching. Like the visitors from Tonga whose bones are in the cave. After the villagers conquered them, they ate them, and piled their bones in the caves - yikes!
Then we went back to the house for the Kava Party, where we were showered with beautiful handmade gifts. Tara and Ma had woven two beautiful baskets (tali tali). Joe carved a Fiji drum (lali) and Teddy carved a small Kava bowl - amazing craftsmanship.
Then Teddy brought in the big Kava bowl and the party got started. Someone must have turned on the Kava sign, because the Villagers started filing in. Even today, the Kava ceremony is a very formal process. Teddy (the youngest) mixes the Kava and serves it in a coconut drinking bowl (bilo) Guests are served first, then the Elders, then Joe, Tara, and the rest of the gang. Before the next round is served, Doug had to say Taka - another round please.
We sat around and talked about Fulaga, sailing, and thanked the village for their hospitality and kindness. When we left, the party was still going. Apparently, the village is out of Kava, so everyone was happy to share.
It is always hard to say good-bye - we are truly going to miss our hosts and Fulaga - what a wonderful experience!
Vinaka Vakalevu
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Plus, we wanted to say good-bye to all of the Villagers that we met during our stay - very sweet people.
So, we loaded up the dinghy with gifts, food, and Kava (of course) and headed to the village for the last time.
We delivered the Kava and they started pounding the roots into powder. It was quite a process and lots of muscle required.
While the prep work was happening, Teddy volunteered to take us to the caves above the village. It isn't far, but it is almost straight up the hill and very rugged. This is the site of the old village - you can still see some of the old foundations - the old Fijians were very tough.
It is a very protected spot, plus there is a great view of the coast line so they could watch boats approaching. Like the visitors from Tonga whose bones are in the cave. After the villagers conquered them, they ate them, and piled their bones in the caves - yikes!
Then we went back to the house for the Kava Party, where we were showered with beautiful handmade gifts. Tara and Ma had woven two beautiful baskets (tali tali). Joe carved a Fiji drum (lali) and Teddy carved a small Kava bowl - amazing craftsmanship.
Then Teddy brought in the big Kava bowl and the party got started. Someone must have turned on the Kava sign, because the Villagers started filing in. Even today, the Kava ceremony is a very formal process. Teddy (the youngest) mixes the Kava and serves it in a coconut drinking bowl (bilo) Guests are served first, then the Elders, then Joe, Tara, and the rest of the gang. Before the next round is served, Doug had to say Taka - another round please.
We sat around and talked about Fulaga, sailing, and thanked the village for their hospitality and kindness. When we left, the party was still going. Apparently, the village is out of Kava, so everyone was happy to share.
It is always hard to say good-bye - we are truly going to miss our hosts and Fulaga - what a wonderful experience!
Vinaka Vakalevu
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Thursday, July 9, 2015
Wow!
You know me, snorkeling in a pass where there have been sharks spotted is DEFINITELY NOT on my Bucket List. I am a big chicken when it comes to those nasty creatures.
But, friends on s/v Obsession and s/v Blinder were going out to snorkel the pass here in Fulaga and Doug really wanted to go. So, I thought I would just come along for the ride and take pictures. Why not?
The pass is about a 1.5 miles from the SE anchorage and you have to time your snorkel around the tides. You want to be there when the pass is calm, which means slack tide.
We timed it just right - the pass was perfectly calm. It looks so different compared to when we entered and the tide was flooding out at 4 knots and you felt like you were inside a washing machine!
Lisa and Lester (s/v Obsession) recommended the left side of the pass (approaching from the lagoon). They are definitely the experts. Everyone (except me) jumped in and all I heard was how beautiful, awesome, and fantastic it was. I had to get my courage up and get in. I was so happy that I did. The water was so clear, the coral spectacular, and so many fish to see as we slowly started drifting out the pass with our dinghies in tow.
But (you knew it was coming) one of those nasty shark creatures swam into my sites. A big white tip reef shark - maybe a 10 footer (at least to me) that looked like he had been well fed. Starting to panic a bit, Doug and Lisa came to my rescue and made sure I wasn't going catapult back into the dinghy. I didn't, but I was ready to get out of the water.
The rest of the gang continued on and saw a huge school of barracuda swarming around. They were so excited - I was sorry that I didn't stay in longer...
But, even with the shark sighting, I was so happy that I snorkeled the pass. What an amazing experience.
Will I do it again? Maybe!
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But, friends on s/v Obsession and s/v Blinder were going out to snorkel the pass here in Fulaga and Doug really wanted to go. So, I thought I would just come along for the ride and take pictures. Why not?
The pass is about a 1.5 miles from the SE anchorage and you have to time your snorkel around the tides. You want to be there when the pass is calm, which means slack tide.
We timed it just right - the pass was perfectly calm. It looks so different compared to when we entered and the tide was flooding out at 4 knots and you felt like you were inside a washing machine!
Lisa and Lester (s/v Obsession) recommended the left side of the pass (approaching from the lagoon). They are definitely the experts. Everyone (except me) jumped in and all I heard was how beautiful, awesome, and fantastic it was. I had to get my courage up and get in. I was so happy that I did. The water was so clear, the coral spectacular, and so many fish to see as we slowly started drifting out the pass with our dinghies in tow.
But (you knew it was coming) one of those nasty shark creatures swam into my sites. A big white tip reef shark - maybe a 10 footer (at least to me) that looked like he had been well fed. Starting to panic a bit, Doug and Lisa came to my rescue and made sure I wasn't going catapult back into the dinghy. I didn't, but I was ready to get out of the water.
The rest of the gang continued on and saw a huge school of barracuda swarming around. They were so excited - I was sorry that I didn't stay in longer...
But, even with the shark sighting, I was so happy that I snorkeled the pass. What an amazing experience.
Will I do it again? Maybe!
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Monday, July 6, 2015
Visiting Day in Fulaga!
We had a fun day today. Even though the weather wasn't great, we decided to take the dinghy all the way across the lagoon (5 miles) to visit the Naivindamu village on the lagoon side of Fulaga. We are so happy that we did. Naivindamu doesn't get many visitors and they were happy to see us.
We were met on the beach by Chico who made us feel very welcome, showed us around the village, and introduced us to the Chief and his wife. We delivered our Kava and the Chief welcomed us into his village and invited us back for lunch. Sure! We were served boiled sweet yams and sea cucumbers (yikes), which are a delicacy. It was our first time so we were a little hesitant, but they were good - a little slimy/sluggy but ok. I ate two, which was plenty! The Chief's wife also sent us home with a basket full of drinking coconuts and papayas.
One of the reasons we wanted to visit Naivindamu village is because of two young men we had met in Port Denarau: Tevita and Malo. They were born in Naivindamu and they are good friends with John and Lisa (s/v Orcinius) - that's how we met them. We told them that we were going to Fulaga and that we wanted to meet their family, plus deliver some items John and Lisa had sent. Buli and Lako were so happy to hear about their sons - it has been awhile since Tevita and Malo have been home. We also got to meet their Grandmother - what a wonderful lady - so very sweet. We told them we wanted to take their pictures so that we could send them to their sons. Grandmother fixed her hair and wanted to have her picture taken with Doug. Big smiles all around!
The Naivindamu village was great for provisioning too. Besides our bounty from the Chief, we were given a pumpkin by Tevita and Malo's brother - Laisa. Plus, Chico sold us some eggplant and papaya, and some good smelling limes from another man. We also scored a beautiful little basket handmade by Chico.
So a great visit all around!
Then we dingy'ed over to the main village, Monacake, to visit Joe and Tara and the rest of the villagers. You know we have been here awhile when everyone knows who we are and that we usually carry goodies in our bag. This time, banana coconut bread. I delivered one loaf to Lisoni, the Chief's daughter, to thank her and her family for having me for lunch last week. And, one loaf to Joe and Tara, plus some other stuff - always so thankful. We also picked up our wooden bowl that Mini had carved for us - it is beautiful.
We are getting quite a reputation here in Fulaga. Everyone liked our Mexican beans, sweet bread, and cookies we took to the Picnic. Tara said she was very proud of us - her Palangas. Plus, everyone knows we can play volleyball. I guess we impressed them with our skills (hah!) at the Picnic. Word does gets around!
Since the weather isn't cooperating, we will be in Fulaga a little while longer. Plus, we want to snorkel the pass, spend more time with the villagers and yachties, plus we promised we would come in for volleyball. We had hoped to play today, but the rain settled in. So, we have lots to do...
Besides all that, we have been keeping busy with Happy Hours on the beach, birthday parties, and exploring this beautiful lagoon!
PS: Doug lost his sunglasses a couple of days ago and considered them gone for good. When we went into the village today, Bix approached Doug asking if he had lost his sunglasses - Bix had found them. So very nice.
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We were met on the beach by Chico who made us feel very welcome, showed us around the village, and introduced us to the Chief and his wife. We delivered our Kava and the Chief welcomed us into his village and invited us back for lunch. Sure! We were served boiled sweet yams and sea cucumbers (yikes), which are a delicacy. It was our first time so we were a little hesitant, but they were good - a little slimy/sluggy but ok. I ate two, which was plenty! The Chief's wife also sent us home with a basket full of drinking coconuts and papayas.
One of the reasons we wanted to visit Naivindamu village is because of two young men we had met in Port Denarau: Tevita and Malo. They were born in Naivindamu and they are good friends with John and Lisa (s/v Orcinius) - that's how we met them. We told them that we were going to Fulaga and that we wanted to meet their family, plus deliver some items John and Lisa had sent. Buli and Lako were so happy to hear about their sons - it has been awhile since Tevita and Malo have been home. We also got to meet their Grandmother - what a wonderful lady - so very sweet. We told them we wanted to take their pictures so that we could send them to their sons. Grandmother fixed her hair and wanted to have her picture taken with Doug. Big smiles all around!
The Naivindamu village was great for provisioning too. Besides our bounty from the Chief, we were given a pumpkin by Tevita and Malo's brother - Laisa. Plus, Chico sold us some eggplant and papaya, and some good smelling limes from another man. We also scored a beautiful little basket handmade by Chico.
So a great visit all around!
Then we dingy'ed over to the main village, Monacake, to visit Joe and Tara and the rest of the villagers. You know we have been here awhile when everyone knows who we are and that we usually carry goodies in our bag. This time, banana coconut bread. I delivered one loaf to Lisoni, the Chief's daughter, to thank her and her family for having me for lunch last week. And, one loaf to Joe and Tara, plus some other stuff - always so thankful. We also picked up our wooden bowl that Mini had carved for us - it is beautiful.
We are getting quite a reputation here in Fulaga. Everyone liked our Mexican beans, sweet bread, and cookies we took to the Picnic. Tara said she was very proud of us - her Palangas. Plus, everyone knows we can play volleyball. I guess we impressed them with our skills (hah!) at the Picnic. Word does gets around!
Since the weather isn't cooperating, we will be in Fulaga a little while longer. Plus, we want to snorkel the pass, spend more time with the villagers and yachties, plus we promised we would come in for volleyball. We had hoped to play today, but the rain settled in. So, we have lots to do...
Besides all that, we have been keeping busy with Happy Hours on the beach, birthday parties, and exploring this beautiful lagoon!
PS: Doug lost his sunglasses a couple of days ago and considered them gone for good. When we went into the village today, Bix approached Doug asking if he had lost his sunglasses - Bix had found them. So very nice.
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Thursday, July 2, 2015
Picnic Day at the Sand Spit!
The village of Monacake (main village) arranged for us all to get together at the Sand Spit next to the SE anchorage for a cleanup day, plus a BBQ. It was a wonderful day!
About 30 of the villagers joined in, plus 14 of us Yachties. We spent the morning moving dead branches and leaves into piles for burning later and watching the villagers forage for food. It was interesting.
-- The villagers caught a barracuda on the trip over.
-- Clams/shells were dug and the meat used for fishing (no catching tho).
-- The rocks were searched for some sort of snail/slug thing (none found - yeah).
-- The net was set to snare anything that might swim by (lots of mullets plus other small lagoon fish were caught).
-- Crabbers went into the bushes and came out with tons of land crabs and some of the big mud crabs with a huge claw (they were yummy).
Meanwhile, there was lots of activity on the beach. Pits were dug, plates and baskets were woven out of palms, lots of coconut cracking and shredding, palms arranged for seating and for our serving table (on the little thatched hut).
Coconut/flour/bread dough (they call it Flour) was wrapped nicely in coconut leaves and placed into the pit and covered with sand and palm leaves.
The barracuda was wrapped in palm leaves and placed in the pit.
Once the crabs were stunned (spiked under one of the legs) and rinsed, the crabs were thrown into the pit on top of the Flour and fish and covered.
The fish from the net were scaled and cleaned and BBQ'd on a open pit, plus a bunch of them boiled in coconut water.
The Yachties all pitched in by bringing meatballs, rice, pasta, beans, and lots of desserts. It was a feast and completely devoured!
Then, some relaxing, some volleyball, some tree cutting, and lots of burning of the brush that we had cleaned up. The villagers want to make this a picnic/camping area for the Yachties. Of course, we like it just the way it is.
PS: The Sand Spit is beautiful - especially at low tide. Pictures to come soon!
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About 30 of the villagers joined in, plus 14 of us Yachties. We spent the morning moving dead branches and leaves into piles for burning later and watching the villagers forage for food. It was interesting.
-- The villagers caught a barracuda on the trip over.
-- Clams/shells were dug and the meat used for fishing (no catching tho).
-- The rocks were searched for some sort of snail/slug thing (none found - yeah).
-- The net was set to snare anything that might swim by (lots of mullets plus other small lagoon fish were caught).
-- Crabbers went into the bushes and came out with tons of land crabs and some of the big mud crabs with a huge claw (they were yummy).
Meanwhile, there was lots of activity on the beach. Pits were dug, plates and baskets were woven out of palms, lots of coconut cracking and shredding, palms arranged for seating and for our serving table (on the little thatched hut).
Coconut/flour/bread dough (they call it Flour) was wrapped nicely in coconut leaves and placed into the pit and covered with sand and palm leaves.
The barracuda was wrapped in palm leaves and placed in the pit.
Once the crabs were stunned (spiked under one of the legs) and rinsed, the crabs were thrown into the pit on top of the Flour and fish and covered.
The fish from the net were scaled and cleaned and BBQ'd on a open pit, plus a bunch of them boiled in coconut water.
The Yachties all pitched in by bringing meatballs, rice, pasta, beans, and lots of desserts. It was a feast and completely devoured!
Then, some relaxing, some volleyball, some tree cutting, and lots of burning of the brush that we had cleaned up. The villagers want to make this a picnic/camping area for the Yachties. Of course, we like it just the way it is.
PS: The Sand Spit is beautiful - especially at low tide. Pictures to come soon!
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Monday, June 29, 2015
Lunch with the Chief today!
Well, and his extended family, but it was such a treat and totally unexpected!
Doug was working with the men (villagers and cruisers) to rebuild the porch at the school dormitory. Last time I checked on him, they were all sitting down to lunch.
The ladies (villagers and cruisers) were in the Community Hall weaving all kinds of wonderful things. Lunch was in progress as well.
I decided to cruise the village and take pictures of the activities and the people - it really is a pretty village. And, as always, the children love to have their pictures taken. Big Smiles all around.
As I passed one of the buildings I heard "Cala, Cala". Several ladies had recognized me and invited me to share their lunch. Besides the ladies, there was the Chief, his daughter Lisoni, his brother, cousins, etc. We had a wonderful lunch and visit and I felt so welcome. I just forgot to tell everyone where I was. Doug eventually tracked me down!
I big surprise, Lisoni, lives in Albuquerque, New Mexico. What's the odds of that? Her and her family live in Isleta and are truck drivers. She comes back to Fulaga a couple times of year to visit, plus she helps with the village projects - like solar panels, lights, etc. Pretty amazing. I told her I would make her a batch of red chili sauce before she heads back to the States.
Plus, the captain of one of the cruising boats in the lagoon works at Los Alamos Labs. We haven't met him yet, but hope to.
What a small, small world we live in!
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Doug was working with the men (villagers and cruisers) to rebuild the porch at the school dormitory. Last time I checked on him, they were all sitting down to lunch.
The ladies (villagers and cruisers) were in the Community Hall weaving all kinds of wonderful things. Lunch was in progress as well.
I decided to cruise the village and take pictures of the activities and the people - it really is a pretty village. And, as always, the children love to have their pictures taken. Big Smiles all around.
As I passed one of the buildings I heard "Cala, Cala". Several ladies had recognized me and invited me to share their lunch. Besides the ladies, there was the Chief, his daughter Lisoni, his brother, cousins, etc. We had a wonderful lunch and visit and I felt so welcome. I just forgot to tell everyone where I was. Doug eventually tracked me down!
I big surprise, Lisoni, lives in Albuquerque, New Mexico. What's the odds of that? Her and her family live in Isleta and are truck drivers. She comes back to Fulaga a couple times of year to visit, plus she helps with the village projects - like solar panels, lights, etc. Pretty amazing. I told her I would make her a batch of red chili sauce before she heads back to the States.
Plus, the captain of one of the cruising boats in the lagoon works at Los Alamos Labs. We haven't met him yet, but hope to.
What a small, small world we live in!
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Thursday, June 25, 2015
More Fulaga Time
Even though the weather has been unsettled and cold (73 degrees inside the boat this morning), we are having a great time exploring and getting to know the villagers!
We got dressed up and went to church on Sunday. Lots of lovely voices singing, a Fijian sermon, and pews - what a treat. We expected to be sitting on the floor! Afterwards, Joe and Tara (our hosts) invited us over for lunch: fish, cassava, flour/bread, and everything covered with yummy coconut cream. We brought chocolate cake stuffed we candy. So much food we skipped dinner - yikes.
Our friends, Karen and Cheryl (s/v Interlude) led us over to a nice beach where we had a big trash burning party, plus foraged for sea grapes/caviar. Karen added them to her salad that night - they were very good. It is amazing what you can find in the sea.
We have enjoyed spending so much time with Interlude - lots of cards, domino's, food, and wine of course. They left yesterday for the Northern Lau - looking forward to catching up with them again.
John and Lisa (s/v Orcinius) had given us a box of books and blowing bubbles for the school, so we delivered the box to the head teacher. He was very grateful for the contribution. The children enjoyed the distraction - peeking out the window and waving at us. Very sweet.
We invited Joe, Tara, and family out to Moondance for lunch. Unfortunately, Joe went out fishing and couldn't join us, plus it was a rainy day. We still had a nice visit with the rest of the family. We made things that were new to the villagers: hummus, lasagna, cornbread, and cheesecake. They seemed to enjoy them all, plus we sent a box of leftovers home for Joe. A very nice afternoon.
Yesterday, we hopped in the dinghy and went exploring the lagoon. So many beautiful beaches, clear blue water, and interesting rock formations. I don't think we will ever get tired of Fulaga.
The weather forecast says that we are finally started to get back to normal - sunshine and warm weather ahead - we hope. Time to have some fun in the sun, plus splash around in the water. About time!
----------
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We got dressed up and went to church on Sunday. Lots of lovely voices singing, a Fijian sermon, and pews - what a treat. We expected to be sitting on the floor! Afterwards, Joe and Tara (our hosts) invited us over for lunch: fish, cassava, flour/bread, and everything covered with yummy coconut cream. We brought chocolate cake stuffed we candy. So much food we skipped dinner - yikes.
Our friends, Karen and Cheryl (s/v Interlude) led us over to a nice beach where we had a big trash burning party, plus foraged for sea grapes/caviar. Karen added them to her salad that night - they were very good. It is amazing what you can find in the sea.
We have enjoyed spending so much time with Interlude - lots of cards, domino's, food, and wine of course. They left yesterday for the Northern Lau - looking forward to catching up with them again.
John and Lisa (s/v Orcinius) had given us a box of books and blowing bubbles for the school, so we delivered the box to the head teacher. He was very grateful for the contribution. The children enjoyed the distraction - peeking out the window and waving at us. Very sweet.
We invited Joe, Tara, and family out to Moondance for lunch. Unfortunately, Joe went out fishing and couldn't join us, plus it was a rainy day. We still had a nice visit with the rest of the family. We made things that were new to the villagers: hummus, lasagna, cornbread, and cheesecake. They seemed to enjoy them all, plus we sent a box of leftovers home for Joe. A very nice afternoon.
Yesterday, we hopped in the dinghy and went exploring the lagoon. So many beautiful beaches, clear blue water, and interesting rock formations. I don't think we will ever get tired of Fulaga.
The weather forecast says that we are finally started to get back to normal - sunshine and warm weather ahead - we hope. Time to have some fun in the sun, plus splash around in the water. About time!
----------
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